Port Market

Photo by Ashley Squiers
Step inside this impressive 19th-century marketplace to experience the sights, sounds and smells of traditional Uruguayan steakhouses.

Let your senses run freely as classic aromas of Uruguayan food and drink waft through the Port Market (Mercado del Puerto). Sample meats, seafood and vegetables cooked over wood-fired grills. Sip on wines produced at Uruguay’s burgeoning wine regions, such as Canelones. Browse handicraft stalls and watch musicians entertain passersby with the sounds of candombe.

A quintessential feature of Montevideo’s daily life since 1868, the area began as a trading market with stands auctioning meats and vegetables to city storeowners. Today, it has more than a dozen restaurants, which fill with locals on their lunch breaks and tourists eager to try Uruguayan cuisine. Prices are generally higher than in other areas of the city but the lively atmosphere is second to none.

A major highlight is the collection of traditional steakhouses, called parrillas. Some are small family-run places with bar seating while others offer white-clothed tables and smartly dressed waiters. Watch the asador (griller) strategically placing cuts of meat on the wood-flamed grill. The ability to cook orders for hundreds of hungry guests simultaneously is a true art form.

Choose a restaurant that appeals to your group and peruse the menu, which is perfect for meat lovers. Popular beef cuts include bife de chorizo (sirloin steak) and ojo de bife (rib-eye steak). Alternatively, order a chivito, a sandwich with thinly sliced beef and toppings including bacon, cheese, mushrooms and lettuce. Accompany it with a glass of tannat wine or a medio y medio, a blend of sparkling and white wines.

Study the Port Market’s architecture, a remarkable sight in itself. Constructed in Britain, its glass roof and wrought iron arches display similarities to a Victoria-era train station.

Outside, browse through all types of antiques, artwork and curios sold by artisans set up along the street. Adding to the entertainment are music groups performing candombe, an Afro-Uruguayan music and dance style.

Reach the Port Market easily via public buses and taxis to Old Town. Visit nearby attractions, including the Carnival Museum and Constitution Square. The market is open daily.

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