Tranquility reigns inside this massive 11th-century Gothic cathedral, which opens onto the stones of one of Chalon-sur-Saône’s most lively plazas.
If you’re used to the rococo designs of other French cathedrals, the Chalon Cathedral may seem a bit understated. The church was denuded of its treasures during the religious wars of the 16th century and again two centuries later during the French Revolution. It nevertheless offers an exciting destination for an architecturally interesting tour in the heart of Chalon-sur-Saône. Rest on one of its pews as you admire its extensive religious art collection, including a 15th-century Pietà, or explore its many side chapels.
Visit Chalon Cathedral at its best on a sunny Sunday morning, when the square in front bustles with a brightly colored farmers market. Join people going in and out through its imposing façade. Sip coffee at one of the many cafés that line Saint Vincent Square as you admire the formidable Gothic stonework and listen for the sound of chiming bells coming from one of its twin towers. Squint up at the capitals and the impressive statues of saints and apostles that look out over the city from their perches.
Take refuge from the heat and hubbub by slipping through the elaborately carved doorway. You’ll find a cool stillness in the somewhat stark church, whose Romanesque pillars give the interior a sense of steady permanence. Walk along the walls to appreciate the varied stained glass, ranging from the 16th century to modern stained glass made by local artisans in the 1950s. Linger on the southern end, where several chapels sit demarcated from the rest of the church by a distinctive local style of stone grilles called “claustras.” Contemplate the 15th-century tapestry as you sit in the pews, letting your mind drift away.
Find Chalon Cathedral east of Chalon’s Old Town, a 10-minute drive or 20-minute walk from Chalon-sur-Saône’s main train station. Parking can be difficult to find in Old Town, so leave your car at the train station or in one of the nearby metered lots and explore the town on foot. The church does not charge for visits.
