30 kilometres to the north-west of Auckland, you’ll stumble across the secluded Bethells Beach, also known as Te Henga, simply meaning ‘sand’. Located at the mouth of the Waitakere River, it has stunning black sand and wild surf and is where the region’s birdlife flocks.
Lately, the beach’s undulating sandy dunes have played their part in helping to save the endangered New Zealand dotterel. Bethells Beach is one of the only spots left where you can see the bird in the wild. Other beach inhabitants include harriers, pukekos, warblers and petrels and blue penguins have often been spotted visiting by night.
Across the park, there is evidence of human habitation on Te Henga for more than a millennium. This includes shell middens, a cave shelter, and an inland ‘pa’ (fortified village) which would once have been used for food storage. These are among the signs that this rich beach and its surrounding forests were once relied upon by human settlers.
Bethells Beach is a popular spot for confident swimmers eager to take to the challenging waters. That said, swimming and surfing conditions can often be dangerous, so only strong swimmers are advised to jump into the waves.
Wander along the trails that lead off in different directions through the sand dunes and the bush. Take the trail to Lake Wainamu and stop off for a picnic, or head for the Waitohi falls. The hiking trails around this spot are part of the 75-kilometre Hillary Trail which winds its way throughout the rainforest and coastline that make up the Waitakere Ranges Regional Park.
If you’re looking for a bite to eat, head for the food truck that arrives at Bethells Beach on warmer days. Don’t rely on it though. You’d be better taking some food of your own with you as the beach is in a pretty secluded spot. Hire a car and drive to the beach. You’ll find plenty of free parking spots behind the dunes as well as at the entrance to Lake Wainamu.
